A celebrated under-the-sea setting and extravagant takes on seafood lure crowds to this pricey destination.

The Scene
The famous blown-glass jellyfish chandeliers, sinuous lines and cheeky aquatic motif create a submarine dreamworld--this is premier dining, Lost City of Atlantis style. Older well-heeled patrons, special-occasion visitors and curious tourists alike are served with pomp.

The Food
The oft-changing seasonal menu offers lushly presented seafood dishes that are consistently elaborate and sometimes inspired. Playful ''ravioli,'' in which black caviar fills scallops acting as pasta, is creamy and deliciously oceanic, but a Maine lobster appetizer with angel hair pasta suffers from an oversweet champagne fondue. The Alaskan king salmon entree is perfectly seared and enhanced by every element of its complex accoutrements, including kale, butter beans and fried squid. Flaky Hawaiian ono rests atop disappointingly plain, flat potato ravioli that tangerine, braised endive and black truffle scrapings cannot revive. Desserts can be disappointing, especially a gummy Meyer lemon cheesecake.