Top-notch Argentinean steakhouse holds court in the city's Italian food ghetto.

The Scene
A brick-walled dining room replete with pine tables and cowhide wall hangings make for a welcoming, if decidedly macho, atmosphere. Cooks attend to a pristine charcoal grill, and a small bar area is a popular pit stop for wine or beer. Attractive, polite servers quickly attend to small groups, couples and neighborhood carnivores.

The Food
Montana-raised beef is the building block for a small menu that riffs on Argentinean and Spanish favorites. Starters, such as beef-stuffed empanadas and baked provolone with herbs, set the stage for the low-carb, high-protein entrees. The tenderloin, prepared rare, melts on the fork and hardly needs a knife to be sliced. The bife de chorizo, akin to a New York strip, is a sturdier cut. The lone fish, a halibut, is delicately prepared with fennel and light tomato sauce. Desserts, most notably the flan and airy pancakes layered with sugar and cream, are a delightful finish.