California entrees and appetizers take a back seat to dessert at this minimalist Hayes Valley restaurant.

The Scene
Huge wraparound windows encase a spare, modern-industrial space frequented by a stylish Hayes Valley crowd. While both lunch and dinner can be busy, the decor lends a subdued air. The restaurant is especially crowded on performance nights at the nearby symphony hall and opera house.
The Food
The kitchen turns out all-American comfort food with gourmet trimmings. A typical menu, which changes every three to four months, includes seasonal dishes like the line cooked haddock that sits in a stew along with artichoke and garnished with rouille. Other entrees might include apple-accented pork loin with homemade mustard spaetzle, and a flank steak sitting on a potato puree. The real star here, however, is the dessert, which includes several marquee selections, such as a red velvet cake wrapped in a cream cheese mousse, topped with raspberries and a cocoa streusel, or a tin roof parfait served along side caramel ice cream and sprinkled with choco bites, marshmallow and peanuts. Along with these elaborate dishes, the glass display case holds a wide selection of tasty pastries and tarts.