Traditional Moroccan dining goes contemporary at this popular Richmond restaurant.

Among the several great Moroccan eateries in this city, Aziza may be the one that transcends its ''ethnic'' category to become a restaurant sought after not by fans of North African cuisine but for anyone who wants to try San Francisco's best restaurants, period. With oversized, cobalt blue banquettes and arched, Arabesque alcoves, the interior resembles the ancient fortress palaces of Marrakech, though the service is distinctly formal and upscale Western-style. Self-taught--and critically acclaimed--chef Mourad Lalou's rich, innovative twists on traditional Moroccan favorites are almost unanimously suberb, but there are standouts: the mildly spiced, grilled lamb sausage made in-house and served with thick tomato compote; baba ganoush, called ''eggplant mousse'' here, and served as part of the spreads plate, is among the best in San Francisco. The main courses are beautiful in concept and execution. One shining example is the lamb shank, which is braised in honey-kumquat sauce and served over caramelized dried fruits--a magnificent pairing of savory and sweet.