A mainstay in San Francisco's upscale dining scene, featuring seasonal California cuisine and a prime bay view.

Soft light filters through the bustling dining room, illuminating art-nouveau details like sculptured light sconces and mosaic floors. The Embarcadero location means an expense-account crowd at lunchtime, with locals and gourmet-minded visitors enjoying the sparkling Bay Bridge views at night. Exceptional appetizers are the stars of chef Nancy Oakes' seasonal menu. Depending on the time of year, dishes might include a house-made fonduta ravioli with shaved black truffles, a Dungeness crab salad with hearts of palm, avocado, blood orange and olio nuovo. Entrees like a Petrale sole with potato cake, gulf prawns, Penn Cove mussels and a chorizo fondue are balanced and cooked to perfection, while heavier fare like an Angus filet mignon do less to showcase the delicate arts the kitchen is capable of.