A Hayes Valley hot spot with an upscale bar scene and a creative spin on classic bistro fare.

The Scene
This luxuriously appointed restaurant is decorated to evoke the golden age of absinthe, with deep-red walls, lush velvet chairs and dark, sexy lighting. The focal point of the main room is the grand bar, stocked with an impressive collection of obscure spirits and glamorously retro cocktails. The back dining area is plush and quiet, a good spot for a romantic late-night interlude.

The Food
With one of the city's most extensive selection of oysters, splurge on a dozen fresh, glistening bivalves, from plump Fanny Bays to sweet Malpeques. Hot starters include a faithful spin on onion soup gratinee, with robust broth and a thin layer of Gruyere melted on top. Entrees riff on old-school Gallic fare--think confit of pork ribs or a croque monsieur laced with apple chutney. For the most part, the food is solid without being truly notable, as evidenced by a textbook coq au vin.