Palate Food and Wine

In Short
This gastronomic destination headed by Octavio Becerra, former executive chef and partner at the Patina Group, has an unmistakable focus: Wine. And if the giant goblets of overflowing grapes flanking the restaurant's interior don't give it away, the remarkable wine list--outnumbering the food selection 10 pages to one--should. It goes without saying that the wine program, with both international and domestic labels, goes toe-to-toe with L.A.'s best. With an ''eno-gastronomic'' library in the back that houses approximately 300 books on such topics as French wine regions and which cheeses to pair with what wine, Becerra has made this foodie outpost one of the most welcoming places to get friendly with wine. But don't discount the food selection here--the menu is kept intentionally small to allow for weekly changes according to available local ingredients. Also, the homemade butter served with a changing garnish (could be radish one night and shaved fennel the next) is a feast in itself.