Simple and classy, this La Jolla institution adds contemporary twists to traditional French dishes.

The Scene
A host greets well-to-do couples and business-types at the door with a French accent, and escorts them to white-clothed tables in the sunny yellow dining room. Simple decor includes hardwood floors and widely spaced paintings of wine bottles and black-and-white French scenes. The atmosphere is composed but convivial as chatter and laughter mingle with quiet background music. An attentive team of servers keeps glasses filled and whisks away plates and silverware between courses.

The Food
Classically trained Chef Jean-Michel Diot's seasonal menu features classic dishes infused with unexpected flavors. The Maine lobster salad's tender medallions are set in a frothy coconut milk emulsion and covered with tousled greens and mango tidbits. Standouts include perfectly cooked, aged sirloin bursting with savory juices and earthy duck breast with soft porcini mushroom raviolis topped with crisp threads of green apple. For dessert, traditional creme brulee is paired with two others in flavors like lavender and lemon-thyme.