Upscale Japanese fusion restaurant offers a unique take on tapas, sushi rolls and mashed potatoes.

The Scene
A striking fish tank, museum-like Buddha heads, dragon statues and ceramic vases outline this busy dining room, while the adjacent sushi bar and outdoor patio with fire pits have more of a lounge feel. Executive chef Stephen Window combines Pacific Rim dishes with classic French culinary techniques for classic ''fusion'' dishes. Small plates include a tasty grouping of Dungeness crabmeat and artichoke, covered by a rich flambé buerre sauce, and Korean barbecue spareribs--a tender and somewhat salty dish neutralized by wasabi mashed potatoes. The crispy, whole striped bass entree for two attracts onlookers as crafty servers de-bone the fish tableside and toss it with soy vinaigrette.