Pearl

The Scene
Out front, a crowd mills up and down College Avenue, lobster-shaped pager in hand. Once the crustacean begins to pulse and blink, in comes the next round of diners. A wall of colored light panels behind the slick bar morphs from soothing blue to sharp green, entrancing a mixed crowd of khaki-clad yuppies, Birkenstock-shod hippies and families.

The Food
Small plates take up most of the menu, like impeccably fresh half-shell oysters, silky sesame oil- and soy-dressed tuna poke in a martini glass, and cylindrical crab cakes garnished with cucumber ribbons. Delicate halibut fillet is complemented by corn, cherry tomatoes, gypsy pepper ragout and a whisper of lobster butter. Moist salmon is served over spinach in sake-yuzu vinaigrette and accompanied by tempura-battered portobellos. Simple desserts include the pluot crisp with Tahitian vanilla bean gelato or a rotating trio of fruit sorbets.