Nick's Cove

The Scene
After years of work and millions of dollars in renovation, famed restaurateur Pat Kuleto (Boulevard, Jardiniere) opened this revamped Highway One institution with his Farallon partner, Mark Franz. The result is an attempt to balance the fisherman's-seafood-shack flavor and authenticity of the local favorite, which shut down in 1999, with the up-market demands of the well-heeled weekend crowd from the city and surrounding Marin environs. Thus, the original, now-restored bar keeps a crowd of tipplers and TV-sports fans buzzing while diners take in the ambience of the circular stone fireplace (also original), clean-yet-rustic decor and water views. Deer heads and antlers, mounted fish and a stuffed goose adorn the dining room in a mix of hunting-lodge and nautical themes as tunes from Bruce Springsteen, Billy Joel, Suzanne Vega and Nora Jones play in the background. But the mix becomes paradox when paying white-collar prices in a blue-collar-inspired atmosphere for a spotty dining experience and service that deserves a reprimand in any kind of workplace.

The Food
Everything was overshadowed by our dinner coming out of the kitchen at a limpet-like pace. Starters and entrees were mixed: An assortment of chilled oysters were nicely handled while clam chowder was bland despite the addition of applewood-smoked bacon. And a very tasty Dungeness crab-stuffed Idaho trout with green lentils, braised endive and truffle beurre blanc was countered by a flavor-deprived and pasty linguini with garlic and parsley. Likewise, dessert was buoyed by an excellent lemon cheesecake, but nearly swamped by an overly rich walnut chocolate pie.

Hits: Location, location, location. If you're lucky enough to pick a success such as the aforementioned trout or you go for one of the lower-priced options, such as a sandwich, a stop at Nick's is worth it due to the bay views.

Misses: Inexcusable execution and service. At 8:15pm, when we w