Wa Sushi & Bistro

The Scene
Floor-to-ceiling windows look out onto a twinkling West Hollywood panorama, and provide the only visual panache to this second-floor mini-mall restaurant. Dressed-down locals crowd the small sushi bar, while larger parties opt for one of the few white-linen covered tables. Servers are warm and friendly, attending to novice diners and sushi aficionados with equal regard.

The Food
Three former Matsuhisa chefs are carving a niche in L.A.'s booming sushi scene with inventive dishes and fresh sushi. Spicy yellowtail salad reflects the trio's talent, with four seaweed-wrapped rolls stuffed with zesty hamachi and pierced with towers of crispy greens. Sweet Santa Barbara prawns are superbly offset with pungent sea urchin and smooth beurre blanc, and flaky Chilean sea bass is boldly paired with velvety foie gras. Traditional sushi is fresh, well textured, and can compete with the top masters. However, conventional Japanese offerings, like sunomono (cucumber salad) and miso soup, pale in comparison to more daring dishes.