Lucques

The Scene
This converted carriage house, once the abode of famed silent film star Harold Lloyd, welcomes with a sleek California ski lodge feel. Weathered brick, exposed wood beams, a prominent, wood-burning fireplace, a cozy bar and a lovely canvas-draped patio all create a homey, upscale vibe. Engaging owner/chef Suzanne Goin is more often at sister property, A.O.C. or her husband's Hungry Cat, but her expert hand is still felt. Service is informed and amiable.

The Food
Meals begin with crusty Italian bread, the restaurant's juicy, salty namesake Tuscan olives and delicious almonds with course salt for dipping. Starters are masterful such as Bing and Rainier cherry salad with sharp arugula, triple cream and duck fat toast; or white asparagus and greens topped with a fried duck egg. Skip the fish entrees, as red meat is the kitchen's strong suit; braised beef shortribs are the star, served with onions and lapped with horseradish cream. Flavorful bone-in grilled club steak for two is also excellent.