Tasca

The Scene
Tiny tea candles glint alongside silver flatware, ornate mirrors, and cinnamon-hued banquettes, adding an elegant sparkle to the small, cavernous space. Enamored couples linger at two-seater tables, while relaxed regulars swirl wine at the sommelier-manned bar. Plates arrive a la carte, sometimes at a slower-than-preferred pace--a shortcoming that is allayed by the earnest, charismatic servers.

The Food
Partitioned simply into small and large plates, the one-page menu offers both classic and inventive Spanish fare. Beyond requisite cheese and charcuterie plates, notable apps include aromatic saffron mussels, decadent black sausage, and a savory--though somewhat chewy--fava bean, ham and sherry saute. House-made angliotti is accented simply with sage, butter and harmonious black truffles. Short ribs are a house favorite, although the accompanying butternut ravioli in mascarpone sauce makes the dish more of a hearty meal than a light, sharable starter. Grilled pineapples and bananas make for a fresh, palate-cleansing finale.

Hits: Unprententious, affordable, flavorful fare is presented by friendly servers, and the wine list is inspired.

Misses: Although some crowds may enjoy the hubbub of a bustling bistro, those seeking intimate dining may feel suffocated on a Friday or Saturday night.