Hiko Sushi

The Scene
Incorporating standard elements of many traditional Japanese hole-in-the-wall sushi joints--assorted Eastern trinkets, leafy plants and track lighting above the bar--more personality is injected via modish art and an old postcard shrine. A mix of Palms dwellers and off-work studio types are greeted by pleasant hostesses, who dutifully recite the restaurant's many restrictions, especially for newbie foodies with omakase intentions. Waitstaff service is pleasantly paced, but counter-seated customers may strain to understand the mumbled descriptions of chef-presented dishes.

The Food
The chef's early morning fish market sojourns are reflected in a modest, traditional menu that is noticeably absent of cooked dishes and cut rolls. A signature starter is sliced tuna in ponzu, pleasant but filling. Nigiri is presented with small pouches of warm rice, best eaten by hand. Standouts include buttery-soft toro; maguro with an earthy essence of ground sesame; and albacore with garlic and ginger, with taste sensations developing in waves of appreciation.

Hits: The fresh fish is delicious, and understated in its simple elegance. With due diligence to the rules and adequate praise, you can strive to earn the respect of the chef.
Misses: Some of the rules make sense, but others like the ''no allergies'' caveat are unfortunate. Two pieces of nigiri per order means less stomach space for experimenting.