Ketchup - CLOSED

Once the hype surrounding their other red restaurant all but fizzled (yes, Geisha House, that means you) the Dolce Group opened another glossy den for the Y Generation. Set atop ''The Sunset'' complex, the glass-encased space, splashed with ketchup-colored pendant lamps and accents, feels a bit like ''2001: A Space Odyssey'' meets ''The Hills.'' Barely legal-looking waiters weave their way among the chattering crowds parked on rows of white leather banquettes and chairs. Ample portions of American diner classics are recast as younger versions of the orginals--and it shows. From the promising-sounding but dry pistachio-encrusted chicken breast to the well-sauced yet suprisingly bland baby pork ribs, flavors aren't fully matured. In contrast, the BBQ chicken salad--appetizingly stacked in a compact square--bursts with nuanced flavor and crunch. The mac-and-cheese is an unexpected knockout of white truffle oil and dungeness crab, while the popular ''3some,'' a trio of parmesan, classic and cinnamon yam fries, maintains a positive score thanks to the five signature ketchups. For dessert, the kitchen's take on a Hostess cupcake should not be missed.