Campanile

The Scene
A sympathetic renovation has transformed Charlie Chaplin's old offices into an elegant yet welcoming space. Evenings attract high-powered urban sophisticates who know their wines. Weekend brunches and special menus on Monday and Thursday nights bring in families and younger diners. It can get noisy; sit in the smaller front room if possible.

The Food
Chef-owner Mark Peel has created a near-perfect restaurant. Silverton's crusty La Brea Bakery bread complements Peel's innovative grillwork, which yields treasures such as prime rib with black olive tapenade and bitter greens, and rosemary-charred baby lamb. Spinach and ricotta ravioli with morels turns a common dish into a revelation of subtle flavors. The cedar-smoked king salmon with a hearty dollop of fresh horseradish cream is perfectly prepared--crunchy outside, tender inside. The desserts (like kumquat semifreddo) are exceptional, as is the wine list.