Osteria Mozza

Famous for its Batali-Silverton super-chef connection, this instant restaurant success remains one of L.A.'s most sought-after reservations. Right next door to sister eatery, Pizzeria Mozza, with window views looking out onto bustling Melrose Avenue, the high-ceilinged room is elegant in a modern way--think deep earth tones, leather banquettes and giant wooden wine racks. It's dominated by the vibrant marble mozzarella bar frequently manned by Silverton herself. The laidback and noticeably courteous clientele is a reminder of the difference between Hollywood's true foodies and straight-up scenesters. The former revel in Osteria Mozza's passionate cuisine and wildly comprehensive selection of Italian wines--even seasoned wine-lovers will most likely seek suggestions from the friendly sommelier. Batali's genius and Silverton's imagination meld to offer a vibrant menu that is at once rustic and robust, sophisticated and complex. Regional dishes include ribollita, a traditional hearty Tuscan country soup, and testa, a fragrant, subtle, delicate head cheese sliced paper thin, offset by green olives and oregano. The mozzarella bar offers a dozen stunning creations like the asparagus burrata with brown butter and guanciale (bacon), or the burricotti--a ricotta-filled burrata topped with tender artichokes, pine nuts, currants and mint pesto. Handmade pastas include francobolli--a ''postage stamp'' filled with rich braised short rib and thyme--and the wildly popular Egg Raviolino with brown butter. The ragus, especially the oxtail with Maltagliati pasta, are hearty and flavorful without being too heavy. Quail-wrapped in pancetta is grilled until the fowl and bacon fuse, resulting in moist, tender meat and all-around deliciousness.