Malo

The Scene
Black tile and flocked, red wallpaper create a minimalist but hipster-friendly vibe that the former Cobalt Cantina could never capture. No longer predominantly gay, straight Eastsiders on first dates and oversized birthday parties comprise an equal percentage of the clientele. Service is competent, but it's surprisingly difficult to get extra dishes or silverware for sharing.

The Food
A pan-Latin menu finds success with the basics, but often overestimates the kitchen's expertise. Made-to-order tortilla chips are softer than most, and come with a choice of salsas: Mild tomatillo and avocado for spice-sensitive diners, or burnt habanero and crème fraiche dip for the more adventurous. Shredded chicken enchiladas immersed in tangy, sweet red sauce, and broiled lobster tail bathed in garlic butter, are standout entrees. However, the intricate flavors of the signature ground beef, potato and pickle taco get lost in a greasy, deep-fried shell.