El Centro owner teams with Dolce investors and alums to open trendy Pan-Asian party house.

The Scene
Glowing pink squares on the building's exterior set the scene for the ''Paris was here so I should be too'' crowd at this Dolce Group standby. The mostly 20-somethings enter through a red-painted wood hallway, arriving at a full-length mirror--a not-so-subtle hint at the see-and-be-seen posing to come. Inside, the prominent main bar's white-grid-enclosed plasma screens are a focal point from every vantage point. Further back, a three-tiered fireplace anchors the main dining room, which is lined with kimono-like swatches and a twig-enclosed private booth. The less showy second floor caters to earlier-arriving diners.

The Food
Sharable Pan-Asian cuisine and sushi achieves a few highlights. The maguro on crispy rice cake is a study in contrasting textures, with its sticky grains and melt-in-your-mouth tuna, and hamachi sashimi can be quite fresh. The tender Mongolian lamb chop is cooked exactly medium rare, and a tasty tempura lobster hand roll wrapped in delicate soy paper.