It's back to basics at this no-frills Hollywood foodie find.

You wouldn't know from the surrounding stretch of nondescript storefronts and post-production studios, but this Highland Avenue spot turns out some of the finest (and most refined) feasts in Los Angeles. Beyond the faded sign and enclosed sidewalk patio, the space--set with blonde wood tables, distressed leather chairs and shiny concrete floor--is simple, if not stark, yet calm even when it's full. Nearby industry types (of the blue jeans and polo shirt variety) file in for lunch, but as night falls, a steady stream of far-flung foodies, seasoned couples and a few yuppies here and there begins to filter in--that's when the leather booths beneath sienna-hued lights cast a warmth to the space not obvious in the light of day. Executive chef/owner Amy Sweeney is once again in charge of the kitchen after a brief but lauded run by chef Julia Wolfson. The New American cuisine still focuses on seasonal, organic ingredient but with a more simple, acessible approach. Starters include a seasonal soup of the day while ''middle'' options include pasta and pizza like the must-try cured salmon with creme fraiche. Main courses range from fresh seafood selections to the signature turkey meatloaf, a fall-apart smothered in a tomato-based sauce. As for dessert, take note: It's not merely a post-prandial afterthought here. From the DIY sundaes to the rice pudding with lemon gelee, the tastebud explosion is well worth the calories.