Taiko

The Scene
The nuclear family thrives at this comfortable, Naugahyde-and-Formica-furnished neighborhood magnet, where well over half the clientele is Asian. Though there are no reservations, for more than two decades, patrons line up at least a half hour before both lunch and dinner openings.

The Food
American efficiency meets Japanese simplicity at this cultural crossroads where, too often, taste, texture or temperature is sacrificed at the altar of efficiency. Partially pre-prepared morsels that are rushed to dining room patrons pale beside the made-to-order dishes served up at the sushi bar. Golden Boat Dinners are visually impressive, but the food disappoints. Hefty chunks of beef teriyaki are sauced with restraint, tempura has just enough crackle and a dramatic fried noodle ''fan'' is greasy. Lukewarm bag tea doesn't compensate for the full-bodied hot miso soup that starts the meal or the humdrum ice creams that end it.