The chef is more famous than the glossy clientele, but it's the sparkling cuisine that deserves top billing.

The Scene
Yes, Wolfgang Puck is in his restaurant, usually chatting up A-list Hollywood players on the lush garden patio. The dining room is striking, with colorful tiles, vibrant stained-glass windows and wildly colorful carpets. Despite the flamboyant scene, Spago is blissfully attitude-free--even if Puck misses your table, you can still expect the red-carpet treatment.

The Food
As Puck's flagship restaurant, Spago remains at the forefront of L.A. dining. Executive chef Lee Hefter's menu features such signature dishes as the deservedly famous salmon and creme fraiche pizza. Using the finest ingredients and his artistic flair, Hefter creates culinary masterpieces, like ricotta-stuffed agnolotti studded with black truffles, and a cobb salad gussied up with chunks of sumptuous lobster. Some dishes mesh Western and Eastern flavors seamlessly; squab with foie gras is set off by kumquat chutney, and tender scallops are scented with lemongrass. Pastry chef Sherry Yard's buttery apple strudel is as good as it gets.