Celestino Drago recreates the Sicilian trattorias and wine bars of his youth--90210 style.

The Scene
Decked out in subdued designer duds, the sophisticated elite swarm this classy dining room. The space is graced with a floating cathedral ceiling of weathered stone, whimsical wrought-iron and colored-glass chandeliers that cast a sexy glow. A communal table at the front bay window encourages small parties to socialize over petite plates and wine carafes.

The Food
Renowned Chef Celestino Drago elevates unfussy Italian country cuisine with market-fresh ingredients and imaginative preparations. The enoteca menu offers tapas-style plates, like little mounds of mouthwatering caramelized short ribs on juice-soaked spelt, or delicious plump scallops grilled along earthy morels and piquant artichokes. Thin-crust pizzas are topped with truffles, prosciutto or porcinis and transcendent risottos rely on simple pairings, like red wine with leeks. Herb-crusted sea breem is moist and light, while a 34-ounce Piedmontese porterhouse for two--a lean, cholesterol-free ''Flintstones''-sized slab of beef--channels the delightful decadence of a rustic feast.