Birthplace of California cuisine carries on with renowned chef Alice Waters.

The Scene
The warmly lit dining room oozes Craftsman style, with gorgeous woodwork, a large, open hearth and glowing copper-shaded lamps. Hushed diners range from Birkenstock-shod Berkeley intellectuals to black-clad city slickers. Service is gracious, though it can be slow.

The Food
Thirty years ago, owner Alice Waters unleashed an epicurean revolution by focusing on locally grown, seasonal ingredients. The menu changes nightly here, and it's always prix fixe, with three to four courses. Simple presentations that might include delicate soupe de la mer with garlicky red rouille or roasted Hoffman Farm chicken with shallots, cream and a hint of calvados are deliciously compelling arguments for Waters' agrarian stance. Past menus have included baked artichokes stuffed with capers, garlic and anchovies and a NoCal riff on Moroccan chicken tagine. Desserts almost always feature fresh fruit, from a delicate poached pear in January to a flaky stonefruit galette in August.

California cuisine in its purest form headlines this upstairs a la carte cousin of the renowned Chez Panisse restaurant.

The Scene
Located upstairs in the same wood-paneled Craftsman bungalow as Chez Panisse, the Cafe is where Berkeley's literati toast their successes over rustic French- and Italian-influenced cuisine. The welcome is always warm and the burnished open kitchen, lined with glistening platters of asparagus, Meyer lemons or heirloom tomatoes, is guaranteed to make even the longest wait worth it.

The Food
The a la carte menu changes daily, with scrupulous attention paid to the subtle gradations of the Bay Area harvest year. When the first fava beans appear in early spring, you'll find them here, followed by sweet peas, king salmon, tomatoes, corn, persimmons, oysters, blood oranges and other seasonal delights. For starters, typical antipasti plates come with firm, milk-sweet Bellwether ricotta, slow-roasted onions, prosciutto and black olives. Entrees often include thick slices of spit-roasted pork melded with dense yellow polenta, or a juicy chicken leg with morels and asparagus.