Sea Salt

The Scene
Cathedral ceilings, sharp lines of brick and tile, and shades of scrubbed seawater blue create a too-cool feel. But the unpretentious, scene-free crowd and an accessible wine list pairs with kind, informed service to offset the edge.

The Food
Comprised of sensible entrees, small plates, sandwiches and salads, the menu goes from cocktail nibbles to full-on splurge. Highlights include small plates such as meaty New England razor clams or grilled local squid atop a piquant paste of spicy tomato and pumpkin seeds. The well-priced oyster po' boy sandwich arrives stacked with slaw, sweet pickles, a tangy remoulade and golden nuggets of sweet, flash-fried shellfish. Main dishes also harvest the bounty of the sea, but accompaniments can dim the spotlight, such as the grilled Columbia River sturgeon, perfectly done but flavor-handicapped from an overblown caponata and overly bitter rapini. End with the frozen lime yogurt, a pucker-inducing, creamy treat.